Product Help

Troubleshooting tips and common questions about our products.

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Aegis Liners Assistance

Warranty Information for Aegis Liners

All Aegis Liners come with a 6 month warranty from time of purchase. View complete Warranty Information here.

Cutting or trimming Aegis Liners

Aegis Transtibial Liners are designed to come up approximately 4-4.5” above the patella.  The lower a liner is trimmed, the less optimal will be the suspension.  If the proximal edge of the liner absolutely must be trimmed, it must be done smoothly with a very sharp shears to avoid jagged cuts and small tears in the silicone.  Other modifications (slits, holes, modifications to outer covering, etc.) will void warranty.

When sized correctly, Aegis Transtibial liners typically should not need trimming because of their flexed shape.  People usually cut straight liners because they are bunching behind the knee.  Our flexed design prevents bunching so trimming below socket trim line should be unnecessary.

Aegis TF and Seal-Pro TF (Conventional Straight Liners) liners may need to be trimmed as they are 1 length. They are made long enough to accommodate various AK limbs The same trimming technique (smooth, clean cut) applies.  As with Aegis  pre-flexed liners, other modifications to Aegis Conventional (straight) liners like  slits, holes etc will void warranty

How to wash Aegis Liners

We recommend any pure soap that has no fragrance such as clear Ivory hand soap.  Anti bacterial soaps are NOT recommended as we have seen many people develop dermatitis when using them.  Liner should be washed with soap and warm water and rinsed thoroughly. Lay flat on towel to dry.  Outer fabric may be rubbed with towel to remove excess water. Inside surface of liner should be cleaned at least 1X/week with rubbing alcohol to remove any soapy residue that could cause irritation.

Recommended Casting Techniques for Aegis Liners

One benefit of silicone material over other liner materials used in some other products that are not silicone, is that silicone allows the Prosthetist to employ ANY casting method the/she feels is appropriate.  It is highly recommended that the patient be casted over the Aegis liner.  When casting over an Aegis pre-flexed locking liner, we suggest that the casting be done with the liner in slight traction/elongation distally.  This will minimize the chances of the patient’s limb pistoning in the socket during ambulation.  This is especially important if the patient has loose or redundant tissue on the residual limb.

Cast Modifications for Aegis Liners

Cast modifications CAN be made to Aegis liners.

Prosthetists should feel free to modify the socket in ANY way that they feel is appropriate.  Isolated reductions and build-ups or total surface bearing (TSB) designs are perfectly acceptable.  Aegis liners are made from pure silicone that does not “cold-flow” like many of the Urethane based materials used in other liners.  (Cold–flow materials spread out in all directions from points of pressure and get thin in that area, reducing cushioning).  Silicone, however, compresses but rebounds so that thinning out of material does not occur.  A global cast reduction of 3-4 percent is typically used.

How to Properly Size an Aegis Liner

Aegis Pre-flexed Liners require two measurements and Aegis Conventional (straight) liners require one measurement.  Please refer to our handy sizing chart.

Trial Period for Aegis Liners

There is a 10 day trial period for all liners made by ESP.

ESP Valves Assistance

Installing ESP BK Valves into Thermoplastics

  1. Use threaded housing (PA-0222 / PA-0222M)
  2. If making plastic socket with support frame, cut a window in the frame where valve will be. Do NOT put valve stem through both the frame and the plastic.
  3. Plastic socket must extend at least 1" proximal to Frame so that sleee seals over socket itself and extends proximally onto patient's skin.

Troubleshoot "Leaking" or "Noisy" Valves (above knee)

If your valve is an AK valve (aka Lyn Valve RV), please follow this checklist to troubleshoot leaking:

  1. Make sure the valve has been cleaned and reassembled correctly according to product instructions
  2. Make sure correct insert being used. We have both manual and auto expulsion inserts. (i.e. shouldn’t use auto expulsion insert with socks)
  3. Is the vacuum hole drilled into cast? Is it clear?
  4. Was the molding dummy positioned correctly during fabrication for optimal draw/conformity of plastic? Holes should be positioned North/South for blister molds and East/West for drape molds. Ensure it is North/South relative to cast center line.
  5. Is the sanded surface level/even with the red face of dummy? You can check for this when tightening the outer aluminum nut. Look at the inside of socket—the black "O" ring that is in housing should expand evenly as nut is tightened.
  6. Check diaphragm condition for tears at edges, small punctures or rubber/plastic adhesion.
  7. Is the valve insert cross threaded?
  8. Is the nut screwed on too tight? DO NOT TIGHTEN WITH WRENCHES—HAND TIGHTEN ONLY!

Troubleshoot "Leaking" or "Noisy" Valves (below knee)

If your valve is an BK valve (aka Lyn Valve BK), please follow this checklist to troubleshoot leaking:

  1. Make sure the valve was cleaned thoroughly during installation process according to product instructions (disassembled completely, spool removed, steam cleared, etc)
  2. Check positioning of valve in socket wall—is the black "O" ring as possible? Use of silicone sealant at base of stem is necessary. Allow for sealant to cure prior to use (minimum of 2 hours, overnight is recommended).
  3. Was the socket drilled/tapped perpendicular to the socket wall?
  4. Check the proximal seal—is the sleeve intact? Is the suction sleeve directly in contact with the user's skin?
  5. Was the valve reassembled according to product instructions?
  6. Check the diaphragm for tears, punctures, and rubber/plastic adhesion

Looking for more help? Additional details are available on product pages.

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